chaperoned:

Name | Description ✗ Description ✗ Description ✗ | FC: Actor Name

“Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Sed dapibus dolor a metus imperdiet sit amet iaculis velit congue. Aenean lobortis cursus leo ut volutpat.” —QUOTE SAYER

Formatting on Tumblr blows. So, here’s a cheatsheet. Simply go to reblog this and click on HTML. Then, copy and paste the sections you need. There are links to symbols and generators you can use as well (particularly for header text). “br /” is used for keeping text one line under what was previously written (HEADER #1) while p creates new paragraphs with a clear line between (HEADER #2). If you write too much in the pre (grey background), it will add a scrollbar. Here’s a link to all the code used because it’s gonna look weird reblogged.

✗ H E A D E R

LOREM » sit amet
LIPSUM » sit amet

CONSECTETUR»

• CAPS; lowercase (Italics)
• CAPS; lowercase (Italics)

✗ HEADER #1

Title → Info
Title → BOLDED [More info about it]
✦ [A] Lorem ipsum dolor sit
✦ [B] Lorem ipsum dolor sit

✗ ℋℯader #2 (link to the symbols to make that)

↳ Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit.

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Donec ac gravida justo. Vivamus in eros vitae orci ullamcorper mollis a quis dolor. Aenean scelerisque, risus nec mattis mattis, massa mauris tristique neque, ac mollis metus urna vel mi. Sed posuere eros orci. Etiam porttitor euismod molestie. In a tellus sed enim faucibus tempus sed nec ipsum. Pellentesque in sem risus. Nullam laoreet, ante non imperdiet dapibus, felis leo porttitor dui, et semper odio diam id arcu.

SOME INTRO CAPS.  And some text after that isn’t as fancy.

✗ Hᴇᴀᴅᴇʀ (small caps generator)

 TITLE // SUBTITLE HERE
basic info or a quote or something

TITLE  // but with bigger text here

T i t l e : and information

Title: Subtitle — [link]

Linked Title → Italics about it

▒█░▒█ ▒█▀▀▀ ░█▀▀█ ▒█▀▀▄ ▒█▀▀▀ ▒█▀▀█  (TARTY GENERATOR)
▒█▀▀█ ▒█▀▀▀ ▒█▄▄█ ▒█░▒█ ▒█▀▀▀ ▒█▄▄▀ 
▒█░▒█ ▒█▄▄▄ ▒█░▒█ ▒█▄▄▀ ▒█▄▄▄ ▒█░▒█ 

BIG.  Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Donec ac gravida justo.

001. TITLE - ARTIST (LINK THE SONG ON THE RIGHT) [►]

Some lyrics or text can go here.

✗ ORDERED LISTS

[1] one
ii. two
03. Title - Artist
04. Title | Artist
5. TITLE AND  / The Artist
some lyrics
or text can go here

song title - song artist | song title - song artist | song title - song artist

i. Title // Artist ii. Title // Artist iii. Title // Artist

i. title — artist | ii. title — artist | iii. title — artist

Title - Artist || Title - Artist || Title - Artist

01 : Title - Artist | 02 : Title - Artist | 03 : Title - Artist

title ○ artist :: title ○ artist :: title ○ artist

1 Title » Artist 2 Title » Artist 3 Title » Artist 

(song + artist) // (song + artist) // (song +artist)

{ Title: artist / or something else } { Title: artist / or something else }

Table of . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 01
Contents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 02

as you see headers can be multiple lines

"Failure is the fog through which we glimpse triumph."

♫ THERE ARE LOTS OF SYMBOLS YOU CAN USE HERE

end notes ;; lorem ipsum text can go here

→ SOME LINKS
→ SOME LINKS

(via xtynn)

dyemelikeasunset:

Tutorial: Feet and Shoes

A little old, but hope it helps!

(via xtynn)

sewingtutorials:

Learn to Sew

“…a series of free online tutorials guiding you through the basics of sewing, from setting up your machine, to understanding sewing patterns, and finishing your seams.”

froontherun:

bikiniarmorbattledamage:

helpyoudraw:

Armor Tutorials and References

Armour Tutorial - PART 1 by rynarts

Armour Tutorial - PART 2 by rynarts

Armor Study and Guide 1 by KataabaIzuua

ASG 2 Head and Neck Armor by KataabaIzuua

ASG 3 Body Armor by KataabaIzuua

ASG 4 Arm by KataabaIzuua

Romance Roundtable

Wasson Artistry

Sword Forum International

ConceptArt

Was intending to reblog for personal reference but heck, we had a few positive examples and resources on real armor, so why not this? :)

YYEEsss

It’s like the Tumblr gods heard my cry and sent this right into my lap

(via xtynn)

spaceconfessional:

cosplay-help:

cosfluff101:

portlybibliophile:

livebetterr:

How to make your own dress form

HOLY SHIT, ATTENTION ALL COSPLAYERS.c

oh, hey, we didn’t have a tutorial last tuesday because I’m a dumb and I put this one to post on 4/23/2012 and tumblr didn’t know what I wanted. OOps.

The sound I made was inhuman.

(via xtynn)

macabrekawaii:

turnonred:

dangerous-ladies:

So you wanna wear a cape?

(God, this new uploading system is balls. It took me forever to arrange them in the right order, because according to Tumblr, despite the pictures being both numbered and uploaded in order, they should just go where-ever they please.)

In this tutorial you’ll be learning to make a basic single-layer cape that attaches from the collarbones. It is patterned as a circle so that it drapes and flows, giving it a lot of body and “flow” when you walk. It has a hand-rolled hem on all sides to give it a clean, finished look without any raw edges.

It works for characters with “trimless” single-coloured capes, such as Superman, Mon-El, or Thor. I will be doing tutorials for trimmed capes or double-layered capes (or capes that have different coloured layers) at a later date, as well as a proper tutorial on collared capes.

What you will need:

• Basic sewing equipment (pins, tape measure, scissors, sewing machine)
• Sufficient fabric; a half-circle cape will take roughly 120”x60”, but ideally you just need a rectangle that is double in length as it is in width. You also want this fabric to be light-medium weight and made of polyester so that it is easier to care for and IRONS WELL. A tiny bit of stretch is alright, but be aware that the more stretch there is, the more your cape will desire to be as close to the ground as possible… and who likes a droopy, sad cape?
• An iron and ironing board.

To make things easier, you may also want:

• A flexible ruler makes life easier to do the curve of the neckline.
• A friend to help play “compass” with you.
• If you have the physical constitution of wet paper towel (as I do), you may want to pop an Advil, because you’re going to hemming for fucking hours.

Ready? Here we go.

Spread your fabric out on the nice, clean floor. Fold it in half down the middle so that you have a square. Then fold it diagonally, so that you have a “slice”; the third and fourth pictures demonstrate this, but you basically want to have something that will open up to be one piece. This is going to save you a lot of time pinning the bottom curve of your cape.

Once you have your fabric laid out nicely and the edges lined up beautifully, take your measuring tape and decide how long you need this cape to be. Josh here is 5’7” or so, and we cut the cape to 57.5”, this way the finished cape will land just around his ankles from the back of his neck.

Remember compasses? Not the kind you use to save your lost ass from the wilderness and find “North”, the kind you used in sixth grade math class like twice and thought was really cool but had no practical use for.  Well, now you get to do something Similar. Line up your measuring tape with that top “point” of your fabric, so it sits nicely in the middle. Have your friend put their finger on it, with enough pressure to keep it from sliding but still leave it room to “swing”. You’re going to use this to draw a large curve across the fabric, using whatever length suits you — if you want to cut a 58” long cape, then use the 58” mark on the measuring tape to pin across. You can see us doing this in picture six. 

Finish pinning the whole way across and then cut just below the pins. When you open it up, you have a big ass cape! (Picture seven.) But it doesn’t have a neck curve yet, and you’ll want to add that so it hangs around your neck nicely. Fold it up again in half (don’t worry about the pizza slice this time) and measure your neck to see how wide you want this neckline to be. We picked 20”, which means we needed to cut an arc that spanned 10”. Now, I’m impatient with math, so I just bent my flexible ruler into a curve and used my measuring tape to make sure it was equal distance away from the corner, but if you’re better at math than I am, you can figure out how many inches you need to “swing” just like you did to cut the bottom of the cape. (A 10” half-circle needs about a 6” swing, for the record.) When you’re done that, cut.

And now you have a cape!

But it’s not finished yet.

If you’re fancy, you may have something called a “rolled hem foot” that lets you do stuff like this easily, but a) I find those things more trouble than they’re worth and b) what am I, a wizard? I’m not fucking around with a foot when I can do it manually. You might be a wizard, though, so if you want to explore this magical sewing foot, you can read someone else’s tutorial here.

But if you’re cool and want to stick with me and learn how to do it manually, that’s cool, too.

Now, if you just folded over the edges once and sewed it down and called it a day, your cape might still be okay. But you don’t want fraying –– that stuff is ugly, and you’ll appreciate the extra work of doing a rolled hem, which is just a fancy way to say “fold that shit over twice.”

Picture 9 shows this pretty clearly, I think –– fold over the edge you want to hem once, iron it, and then fold it over again, so that the ugly raw edge is trapped inside. Pin it all. You’re going to want to pin it very evenly and close together, and TAKE YOUR TIME. If you rush it, you’re going to end up with an ugly, uneven hem, and it’ll bubble up in weird places because you’re hemming a big curve, here. This can be very tedious and take a long time, especially if your cape is huge. (This is why it is usually faster to just make a double-layered cape. UGH, HEMMING.) But the results are worth it; a single-layered cape with beautiful hems is gorgeous and usually less bulky than a double-layered one, so they fly better.

Once you have everything pinned (taking care to pin down the corners neatly, too) you can sew it all. Take your time and make sure the fabric is tight/flat when you sew over it, lest you end up with weird bubbles and misplaced hems. Stay close to the edge of the hem, so that you don’t end up with overhang.

Speed will only sabotage you.

Once you’re done sewing it all down, take out any remaining pins and give the whole thing a good ironing. This should smooth out any remaining warps in your fabric, as you’re using a polyester and they can be warped back into line a little with some heat. 

And then enjoy your cape. You earned it. 

Go race some airplanes.

To anyone that follows me for my Journey cosplay tutorial, here’s an excellent tutorial for capes that would also work perfect for mine too!

aw ye back on my dash right when I need it!!

jackhawksmoor:

drtanner-sfw:

therevenantwrites:

A short list of several types of poison and their effects.

Oh, excellent. I like this.

characters

riiiight

(Source: corvoattanorps, via xtynn)

(Source: cosplayingwhileblack, via xtynn)

silencedrowns:

pokemonmasterkimba:

I’ve always hated doing shoe and boot covers until my friend introduced me to this method. Turns out it’s not very well known how to do it! So I decided to take some photos while I did my most recent ones and make a tutorial for others to use. This tutorial can be used for socks, shoe covers, spats, custom boots, and anything else you can think of!

I’m only covering how to make the pattern, not how to sew it because I feel like that part is pretty straight forward.

Here we go~

Skill level required: beginner
Time: ~1hr
Materials:
-shoes
-saran wrap
- tape
-pen
-paper scissors
-ruler
-butcher paper
- a body
- a friend!(not required, but VERY helpful!)

Here are your supplies! I used blue tape because it’s what I had lying around, but I would suggest packers tape. It’s a lot easier.

Ok, step  1! Put on your shoe and start wrapping your leg with the saran wrap. It sticks to itself, so this step is pretty easy. I am making suuuper high boots, so I have the wrap pretty high up. Only go as high as what you’re making to cut down on time& supplies. Also, be sure to get all around your shoe(and underneath if you’re making a custom sole).

 It is very important that you are keeping your leg straight from here on out. If you bend it, the tape and everything will move around and your pattern won’t fit as well as you’d like. So keep your leg straight!

Step 2, tape bracers. I suggest putting long strips down the center front, center back, and perpendicular in key spots(top, mid thigh, above/below knee, mid calf, ankle, foot arch, toes) these strips will act as support for the rest of the tape and prevent you from taping too tight.

Step 3, the fun has begun! Tape, tape, tape!! Looks good, right??

 WRONG! Here’s where it’s important to have a friend helping. It’s hard to reach everywhere unless you are very flexible.

Step 4,Be sure you have everything covered in tape before moving on to the next step. 

Step 5, mark your seams. I suggest doing a front and back seam, if not more.  Did some dashes up the front of my leg for where I wanted the seam, and then used a flexible quilting ruler to make it a straight line. Since I was doing this on my own, I couldn’t draw the back seam. I’ll show you how to do that in a few steps!

Step 6, cut it off. BE CAREFUL, PLEASE. Especially around your knees and ankles.

Step 7, you are now free from your sweaty leg prison!

Take your cast off your leg, but leave your shoe in.

Step 8, Now that it’s off, tape up any spots you may have missed, including the bottom of the shoe if you’re making the bottoms as well. Mark around the bottom edge of the shoe to get the correct shape, and cut it out.

Step 9, this is for if you didn’t draw& cut your back seam. Lay out your cast and fold it as closely in half as you can. I have the legs of a 6^th grader, so mine folds very nicely without many bulges. If yours doesn’t, fear not! Just get it as close as you can to in half and we’ll flatten it out in a bit.

Step 10, cut it in half! Looking good so far! This is also where you can add extra seams and style lines if your character calls for it.

Step 11, we’re now going to transfer your pattern to butcher paper! If your pattern isn’t laying flat, here’s what you do…

*snip* that’s it! When you’re tracing your pattern, you just sketch between the opening to make it a smooth line.

Step 12, Finish tracing it out, and your pattern is done! Yaaaay we made it! Haha Mark the outside/inside in a way that you can tell them apart(I used O and I). Don’t mix them up!

From here, you need to add seam allowance before cutting it out otherwise it’ll be too tight!

That’s it! After that, the sewing part is pretty straight forward. I would suggest knit fabrics and maybe a short zipper at the ankle, but if you want to use a woven that’s fine; just add a bit more ease and include a zipper up the back from top to bottom.

Let me know if you have any questions, and hopefully you won’t hate doing shoe covers as much now! haha

This is an awesome method and I used it for my Annasui shoepants… which reminds me. If you are willing to splice this pattern with a leggings pattern, this is a great way to make shoepants when you’re working from a fabric (like 4-way stretch vinyl) with less stretch than spandex!

(via raystrider)

dolldelight:

For the detailed tutorial please visit [here].

(via thoughtfulwonderings)